Days 115-122

Day 115 – zero day
Day 116 (July 15th) – 16.3 miles to Fingerboard Shelter. New York is hard, man! Lots of rocky mountain climbing today – up and down, up and down. Some serious boulder climbing today! Very glad we took yesterday off and did not attempt today’s hike in the rain. We went through the Lemon Squeezer today! Couple of places had gallons of water put out for the hikers, very nice. We also had some great trail magic today – grilled brats and burgers, chips, beer, soda – delish! Tomorrow we get to Bear Mountain, lowest elevation point in New York.

Oh, and this shelter has had a bear come by almost every night, I hear, but he only looks for easy to grab food bags. Sunset’s has hung out bags really good tonight so they should be safe.
Day 117 (July 16th) – 15.5 miles to Bear Mountain, NY. Easier than yesterday, but still another hard day. Surpassed the 1400 mile mark today, and went through the Bear Mountain Zoo (part of the trail), which was super crowded. The zoo (specifically the bear cage) is the lowest elevation point on the AT. In town resupplying, etc., staying at the Bear Mountain Bridge Motel.
Day 118 (July 17th) – 20.2 miles to Clarence Fahnestock State Park. Long day but a much better day. Got a later start and hiked all day. Very hot today and our chill rags worked great. Raining now and couldn’t find campground so we are tenting near beach and picnic tables. Hope we don’t get kicked out tonight!!
Day 119 (July 18th) – 14.0 miles to Morgan Stewart Shelter. Pulled up short today, the HEAT is getting to us! Super hot and humid today + lots of hills to climb = no good. Started taking breaks every hour just to cool down from over heating. On plus side – no rain, pretty good coverage from sun, boulders/rocks have lessened a bit. Awesome deli stop today (what we’re doing is called deli-blazing). There’s water and a privy here at the shelter! Life is still good, we just need to focus more on not over doing it in the heat.
Day 120 (July 19th) – 16.6 miles to Wiley Shelter. Another scorcher today, we went super slow, took lots of breaks, and drank lots of liquids & electrolytes. Trail magic and a food truck right off the trail helped tremendously! Also we got to swim in Nuclear Lake for our morning break. The shelter we’re at has a free library, and now my book is in it!! ?
Day 121 (July 20th) – 19.4 to Stewart Hollow Brook Shelter. OMG today was hotter than hell!

Really hard for us to keep our spirits up today. We’ve never sweated so much. Lots of hills (mountains) combined with the humidity and heat made for a ridiculous day (we even started at 6 and took and hour and a half lunch). Then it rained on us for the last mile. Good news – we ate a fabulous mac & cheese dinner, met a hiker who knew all about me – she had found my Costa Rica Chica blog last year, we are now in Connecticut and more than 2/3’s of the way done with the entire trail!
Day 122 (July 21st) – 8.9 miles to West Cornwall Road, staying at Bearded Woods Hostel. Another hard day, but not as bad as yesterday, and today was shorter miles. Soooooo happy to take a shower!! Bearded Woods is an awesome place.


Days 110-114

Days 110-114

Day 110 zero day in Delaware Water Gap – my friend Brandi drove three hours to meet us in person! Had a great day!
Day 111 (July 10th) – 16.7 miles. Got a later start this morning (breakfast and Sunsets got a haircut). We have entered into New Jersey! 7 states down, 7 states left. NJ is beautiful so far, even though it is still rocky. Saw a black snake and a rattle snake today (walked right by rattle snake, it was off to the side in the grass but very close to trail, and did not rattle at us). 
Day 112 (July 11th) – tally for today:
20.5 miles

3 falls on slippery slanted boulders (we’re ok)

1 deer

3 salamanders (efts)

2 bear cubs ? (eating berries)

1 gazillion rocks 
It was a hard day. But we are having the time of our lives out here! We still say to each other “can you believe we’re out here doing this?”
Day 113 (July 12th) – 19.6 miles to Pochunk Shelter. Got a free soda today at High Point State Park, met a guy at the High Point Lookout who chatted with us for a while and then gave us $20 to treat ourselves to pizza(!), then went to our first NJ deli later this afternoon (0.4 miles off trail but worth it!). The rocks seemed to abate after this morning which was lovely, but it was very hot and muggy today, which is an energy drainer. Tomorrow we get to slack pack with a trail angel, Which we are super excited about!!
Day 114 (July 13th) – 21.6 miles to NY 17A.

Slack-packed* today compliments of trail angel Andrea Bacon. We had a great and hard day today. We passed into New York today! So 8 states down and just 6 more to complete! Day started great, but got caught in a thunder/lightening storm this afternoon at the worst time – right when we were climbing onto a bald and totally exposed to the open sky. We hunkered down under a tree for a while, and then ventured out very carefully. We did not slip or fall, but it was slow-going. Andrea was there to meet us at the end of the day, and we went to an ice cream shop down the road. 

*Slack-packing means hiking the trail without our full weight backpacks (Greg’s weighs 26# and mine is 27# – that’s rightC I’m carrying more weight than him!). We carry a small day pack with only water and snacks for the day. In this case, Andrea met us early in the morning to pick up our packs, and then met us at the end of our day to give us our packs back. 

For pictures or videos, search for “Appalachian Trail Tales” on Facebook and YouTube. 

Days 95-106

Day 95 (June 24th) – 14.8 miles to Rocky Mountain Shelter. Had wonderful breakfast at B&B, and good weather today. Met Jim Tabor who had been holding one of his carved spoons for me, and he made one for Sunsets as well (and he brought us ice cream sandwiches!). Super nice guy (IG: jim_tabor). Gearing up for a big day tomorrow. 
Day 96 (June 25th) – 26.4 miles! We did a whole marathon (26.2 miles) today! We also passed the REAL 1/2 way point today, so we are now officially closer to Maine than GA! Woot woot! Great day of hiking today, plus we got a burger at Pine Grove Furnace, plus I met a girl from my AT Women’s Group who was in the area today (Ann – good to meet you!). 
Day 97 (June 26th) – 15.3 miles to campsite on edge of Boiling Springs, PA. Good weather. Pretty good terrain (though got an intro to the Pennsylvania Rocks). Ran into Moonbeam whom we started with on March 22nd, but hadn’t seen since Hiawasee, GA, and hiked with her into town. Met up with Tom Willard tonight (we’ve watched Tom’s YouTube videos for the last two years and have since become friends), he took us out for a fabulous meal and then frozen custard. Tenting tonight and will do short hike into town tomorrow for a Nero. 
 Day 98 (June 27th) – 0.8 miles into town, Nero, hung with Tom and checked into Allenberry Resort. 
Day 99 (June 28th – 18.1 miles. Lots of flowers and farmland today, beautiful weather (full sun but cool, not humid). Rocks start tomorrow!
Day 100 (June 29th) – 18.3 miles. We got introduced to the Pennsylvania rocks today (this is why they call it “Rocksylvania”), and so far, they’ve been like all the other rocks we’ve already tackled. It makes for a slow and hard-going day, though. The trail went through Duncannan today, and we had lunch there and picked up a package from my Mom (new shoes for Sunsets! and jerky and Mountain House treats!). Thanks Mom!!
Day 101 (June 30th) – 17.9 miles to campsite before Rausch Gap Shelter. Semi-hard day today, and I know we haven’t even gotten to the real Rocks yet. Got to camp and set up tent just before a down pour. It was quite windy and a tree limb fell on our tent and broke a part of the tent frame. We duct taped it and it held through the night (thank goodness!). No cell service last night so making calls and trying to figure out what to do today. 
Day 102 (July 1st) – 4.8 miles to Rock & Sole Hostel. Tom Willard helped us find a place to get off trail to for our tent repair. Turned out a fellow hiker staying at the hostel had a tent pole sleeve that he wanted to give us! So nice, as we would have had to order one and have it sent priority mail. The Family Man is our hero!  
Day 103 (July 2nd) – 18.4 miles. Had a great breakfast and morning at Rock & Sole Hostel, and a bit later start to the day. Officially into the rocks now, was hard but not awful. We were happy to stop walking tonight though! Ran into our pal Zero Hero today, so nice to hike with him today. Would you believe we have less than a thousand miles to go to Katahdin?? (990.5, to be exact)!
Day 104 (July 3rd) – 18.5 miles to Port Clinton. Hard day, lots of rocks. Tenting at pavilion in middle of town, which is offered to hikers. Catching a rod to town in a bit to get something to eat. Glad to be done walking today!
Day 105 (July 4th) – 14.8 miles to Eckville Shelter Campsite. Another hard day, but got some beautiful views today! Saw another rattle snake.
Day 106 (July 5th) – 16.4 miles. Happy Birthday Mom!! Another hard day, but we did great. Saw two black snakes today. Knife’s Edge was crazy! 
For pictures or videos, search for “Appalachian Trail Tales” on Facebook and YouTube. 

Days 91-94

Day 91 (June 20th) – 19.6 miles to Harper’s Ferry, WV! We are at the traditional half way point of the AT! The ATC (Appalachian Trail Conservancy) takes our picture and puts it in a book for this year. So exciting! Waiting to get picked up by a friend (whom we’ve never met!), who is graciously taking us in for the night. Life is good. Just half more of this bad boy to do!  
Day 92 (June 21st) – 17.8 miles to Dahlgren Backpack Campground. Day started with coffee and a wonderful breakfast by Trish, who picked us up last night and totally pampered and spoiled us (we only knew each other from a FB group!) – Trish & her husband Greg were awesome. Then we started back on trail in search of a peace monument ours friends John & Karen Noltner has left us when they visited the area earlier this year. Unfortunately it was no longer there, so we built our own (at mile 1027.8). Trail was pretty nice today, but lots of rocks. 
Day 93 (June 22nd) – 18.8 miles to Raven Rock Shelter. Pleasant weather, trail magic and good terrain for most of the day, then some big boulders and climbing at end. Rain expected tonight and tomorrow and we have some big boulders to scramble tomorrow, but we only have 5 miles to do to Waynesboro where a B&B awaits us with a jacuzzi tub!!
Day 94 (June 23rd) – 5.0 miles to Waynesboro, PA. We passed the Mason-Dixon Line and are now in Pennsylvania! 6 states down, just 8 more to go! We are at a fabulous place called Burgandy Lane B&B, can’t wait to use the jacuzzi tub later!!
For pictures or videos, search for “Appalachian Trail Tales” on Facebook and YouTube. 

Days 82-90

Day 82 (June 11th) – 20.7 miles to Blackrock Hut (our biggest day yet)! Saw our first bear today! It was a cub and about 30 yards away and ran away from us. It was a hot day, 85 and sunny. We ran into friends we made our first week out here, but hadn’t seen since the first 100 miles – Many Miles and Giggles (and her dad, visiting from England this week). Good day, hard day. No water the last 13 or so miles and we were completely out by the time we got here tonight (but knew there was water here – and it is delicious! Cold and right out of a spring!). 
Day 83 (June 12th) – 21.4 miles to Hightop Hut – our biggest day yet. We hit the 900 mile mark today! We saw a deer and a rattle snake and ate at our first Wayside in the Shenandoah National Park. It was a long, hard day. Very hot out and buggy (gnats hovering in front of our faces). Everyday has its challenges out here. 

Day 84 (June 13th) – 11.6 miles to Lewis Mountain Campground. Listening to our bodies and took it a bit easy today. Still hard day – lots of uphill in hot and humid weather. Campground is for “normal” people, so has a little store, coin showers and laundry. Not much else to report. The heat and bugs are making this hard, along with many few other ailments… 
Day 85 (June 14th) – 16.7+ miles to somewhere past Skyland Resort where we are currently having a drink and burger/wings. Much better day today! My feet and knee is feeling better, weather was cooler (thundered all day but no rain yet) and terrain was pretty nice until about 3 miles ago (rocks/climbing). Will stealth camp somewhere just past here. 

Day 86 (June 15th) – 18.4 miles to just past Elkwallow Wayside. Cool weather, rain held off all day except for a little sprinkling. Got to the last Wayside of the Shenandoah’s before it closed tonight, we’ll be out of the park tomorrow. Saw a deer and two small grey snakes today, deer was very tame. Stealth camping tonight.
Day 87 (June 16th) – 19.3 miles in the rain. Miserable day. Hiking 19 miles alone is hard, but add a constant rain? No fun. 

On the positive side… I got nothing. Maybe tomorrow. 
Greg called today his worst day yet. 

Day 88 (June 17th) – 0 miles / zero day in Front Royal. Rested, relaxed, ate, bathed.  

Day 89 (June 18th) – 20.8 miles to just past Ashby Gap. No rain but humidity was sweltering. Greg got heat rash again, may be a reoccurring thing. We got trail magic today!! Hadn’t seen for a long time, and was a very welcome sight on this sweaty day! Saw two large rat snakes. 

Day 90 (June 19th) – 12.7 miles to just past Bear’s Den Rocks. Big day today – passed the 1,000 mile marker! Did most of the Roller Coaster – a 13.5 mile section of severe ups and downs. The Roller Coaster is hard! Especially in this humid weather. We just barely threw our tent down when it started pouring out. Day ended early, but we are not hiking in the rain. Tomorrow we’ll hike into Harper’s Ferry, the symbolic half-way point, where we are meeting a friend-turned trail angel!
For pictures or videos, search for “Appalachian Trail Tales” on Facebook and YouTube. 

Days 72-81

72 (June 1st) – 0 (zero day). 

Day 73 (June 2nd) – 16.4 miles. We hit the 1/3 way mark today, hard to believe we are 1/3 of the way done! We saw a deer right next to the trail today, and she was not shy at all. We are next to the BRP (Blue Ridge Parkway) that the AT crisscrosses for the next 100 miles, it’s really beautiful here. We found a perfect stealth site just past Harvey’s Knob Lookout. My knee was hurting today, but I’m sure it’ll be better tomorrow. 
Day 74 (June 3) – 16.2 miles. Beautiful weather and not bad terrain. Saw a black snake and several lizards. Passed nice swimming hole (with cold water) and got an ice cold Mountain Dew from Grateful! Saw lots of new (to us) hikers today, we might be in a new bubble. Knee was better by this afternoon (went slower on downhills today), hoping that keeps up!

Day 75 (June 4) – 16.5 miles. Sunny and hot day. Very humid. All uphill today, with some rocks and boulders (total ascent of 4,881 ft!). Saw 3 deer who aren’t afraid of us at all. Saw and survived The Guillotine!!

Day 76 (June 5) – 7.7 miles to Glasgow, VA – Stanimal’s Hostel. Miserable day. Was raining last night and all day today – including when we took the tent down this morning (we tried to wait for a lull, didn’t happen). I (Chica) have decided that I really don’t like hiking in the pouring rain. Bright spots: the terrain was pretty decent (well, except for the huge mud and puddles we had to walk through), we hiked fast (3 mi/hr), we met Subway (Hiker from NY, retired cop), we had a Nero (short hike) day, and are now at a Hostel taking care of business (it’s easy to think of the positives after getting out of the rain and having a hot shower!). This is a great Hostel, they have lots of food and drinks you can buy – all on the honor system, check out the candy selection!

Day 77 (June 6) – 20.0 miles to Brown Mountain Creek Shelter. Hiked most of the day with Subway, beautiful weather with a cool breeze. Passed the 800 mile mark! Saw a snake – Sunsets thinks it’s a Hog Nose Snake (I was in front and this time saw it in time to not step on it!). When Sunsets prodded it to move, it puffed up and hissed at him, we waited as we couldn’t go around (steep decline on one side and very thick underbrush and steep uphill on other side), and finally it slithered off across the trail. 

Day 78 (June 7) – 18.5 miles to Spy Rock Campsite. Very chilly all day, and very cold now at night. Good day hiking! Ran into Subway again and hiked most of the day with him. Tomorrow hiking 19.4 miles to Reed’s Gap and hopefully getting a hitch or ride in to Devil’s Backbone Brewpub, which several people have recommended. They let you tent for free, so that is our plan – eat dinner, tent, have breakfast next morning and head back to the trail. 

Day 79 (June 8) – 19.4 miles to Reed Gap. Killer day – all rocks, boulders, uphill or downhill. Thought this day would never end!! But we made it! I stuck out my thumb for a hitch and we got picked up right away, dropped off at Devil’s Brewpub where we are now dining (it’s a real restaurant!). They let us tent here for free, have ‘a $5 breakfast and will take us back to the trail in the morning. What a great place!!

Day 80 (June 9) – 14.1 miles, Reeds Gap to Paul C. Wolfe Shelter. Started with great breakfast at the Brewpub, then a shuttle back to the trail, so didn’t start hiking till 10:30. Check out my video (when posted) for Devil’s Pub – can’t say enough great things! More boulders today, but definitely easier than yesterday, thankfully! Great weather too. People all around us saw a bear today, and we were looking closely, but did not see. 
Day 81 (June 10th) – 5.0 miles to Rockfish Gap, then to Stanimal’s Hostel in Waynesboro. Nice easy hike today, and enjoying our Nero so far. Chic-fil-A for lunch (oh so good!), showers (oh that feeling of getting clean!) and packages to open!!! Stanimal (thru-hiked in ’04) has a nice Hostel here and the town of Waynesboro has everything you need!

Days 65-71

Day 65 (May 25th) – O miles, Zero day, Pearisburg, VA. Greg got some kind of food poisoning (we think from Mexican restaurant yesterday) and was up all night. Feeling better today but rested all day. Glad we are taking zero today! Hopefully he will be back to normal tomorrow. 
Day 66 (May 26th) – 14.9 miles Pearisburg to campsite. Happy Birthday to Chica! Greg still not feeling perfect. Day was cool and windy, bit of sun. Rain forecasted for tomorrow and Sunday, trying to keep our spirits up. 

Day 67 (May 27th) – 14.6 miles to stealth camp site. Today was a hard day, mainly because of the terrain – rocks and boulders and stream crossings and mud. Rain held off all day which was nice. 

Day 68 (May 28th) – 15.8 miles to Sarver Hollow Shelter. Saw the 2nd to biggest tree on the AT today (300 yrs old, 18′ around) and got two trail magics! Saw three deer today! Another hard day, but we dodged the rain again.

Day 69 (May 29th) – 16.1 miles to Pickle Branch Shelter. Saw a baby rattle snake today, I stepped over it and didn’t even see it. Got trail magic and met Grateful and his family. It was a good day! 

Day 70 (May 30th) – 16.0 miles to Pig Farm Campsite. What a day! Most exhausting and most rewarding. We hit 700 miles today! Dragon’s Tooth area was the hardest rock climbing we’ve done. McAfee Knob was so awesome to see finally in person! We are exhausted and hurting but happy. 

Day 71 (May 31st) – 15.5 miles to Daleville, VA. The trail was so much nicer today, which we really needed after yesterday. Hiked with Single T all day and got to Daleville just as it started raining. Shower, eating, celebrating Chica’s birthday, and laundry are on the agenda. Zero today tomorrow. 

For pictures or videos, search for “Appalachian Trail Tales” on Facebook and YouTube. 

Days 58-64

Day 58 (May 18th) – 15.1 miles from Mount Rogers Visitor Center to stealth camp sight. Great day hiking today! Got a later start because of shuttle and it was hot out. Got trail magic at the old school house!, then kept hearing about “the barn” restaurant that the AT passed and stopped there for a late lunch. Haven’t eaten any of the food we resupplied with today, but we are happy. 
Day 59 (May 19th) – 14.7 miles to Lick Creek. Lots of uphill today and very humid weather. Rained over lunch time, we made it to a shelter just in time to take cover. At campsite tonight by river with Roar, Sushi Roll and Single T. 
Day 60 (May 20th) – 16.4 miles to Jenkins Shelter. Lots of climbing. Lots of heat. Thunder and threatening thunderstorms but we missed them. Saw a raccoon and a small snake. There were frogs ribbiting around a pond. Water was scarce this afternoon. Just another day on the AT. We aren’t seeing that many hikers right now because Trail Days is going on in Damascus; however we leapfrogged with 4 of our friends today, so that was cool. 
Day 61 (May 21st) – 11.3 miles to Bland, VA. Very wet and rainy day today. Used my hiking umbrella today and it worked great. Staying at Zero Days Hostel, ran by a guy (Nature Boy) who thru-hiked last year. Waiting for post office to open tomorrow morning (for a care package!) and then will get back on trail tomorrow. 
Day 62 (May 22nd) – 20.2 miles (this is not a typo!). Biggest mileage day ever AND we hit the 600 mile mark today (seems like we just hit 500 miles the other day!). Day started with a breakfast made by thru-hiker Yoda at Zero Days Hostel, then went to post office and got an amazing care package from our friends Anje & Tim (you guys rock!). After rearranging and packing our food bags, our hike started with great weather and good terrain, and eventually our 12/13 mile plan started turning into more. We planned it so we knew we could make it to a camp-site before dark and could stop earlier if we felt like it. We are high on life right now!
Day 63 (May 23rd) – 15.7 miles. Today was miserable. Rained all day long. Still going now (just before dark as I type this, between two snoring guys in a shelter). Low spirits today. 
Some positive notes: We made really good time today, despite the rain and a lot of boulder hopping. It didn’t pour. It was cold, but not hypothermia-cold. We saw a turkey and her babies (turkeylings?). We got to a shelter at our stopping point and spent night in it for first time (we first had all to ourselves and then 3 other guys joined us). There was a perfect saying in the shelter – just for me. We didn’t have to set up our tent in the rain (nor take down in rain next morning). We had awesome coffee and a hot meal to eat from our care package friends Anje & Tim. We only have 8.3 miles to do tomorrow to get to Pearisburg (even though this rain is not stopping anytime soon). 
Day 64 (May 24th) – 8.3 miles. No pain. No rain. No Maine. Another miserable day. BUT we made it to Pearisburg, VA and are now warm and dry. Thinking of taking a zero tomorrow. We are worn down with the cold rain and is supposed to rain more tomorrow. Got our first hitch hike into town today with Sandals (nice young guy we met a couple days ago and hiked with a bit today). The guy that gave us a ride was wearing a Packer hat!

Days 56-57

Day 56 (May 16th) – 16.3 miles to Trimpi Shelter. Good day today! Though hot and sunny, we were sheltered by branches for most of the day. Saw a garter snake, but smaller than the first one we saw before. Tomorrow just 10 miles to Marion, where we’ll do a “nero” (near zero miles, but not quite. Whoever thought I’d say 10 miles was almost zero miles?!). We’ll resupply, shower and do laundry and then head back out the next morning. 

Day 57 (May 17th) – 10.0 miles Nero to Marion. This “little 10 mile day” was harder the. We thought! Hot day and lots of uphill! Got the Marion Transit to town for 50 cents each and we are showers and going to eat and resupply next. Will head back out to trail tomorrow morning. 

Day 49-55

Day 49 (May 9th) – 14.4 miles. Hard start, waited for rain to let up before taking down tent. Thought it would rain all day, but it did not! We made it through the 4-mile “high bear activity area,” and didn’t even see a bear. Hard and steady uphill hike today (not sure how we would have done it in the rain), but we were rewarded with a nice, private tent site tonight!
Day 50 (May 10th) – 18 miles!!! Longest day yet. Walked through a beautiful meadow, and had lunch under a tree. Great weather, sunny with a cool wind. Every part of my body hurt today (well, almost all), was hard day for me. Short(er) day into Damascus tomorrow, trail goes right through town. 
Day 51 (May 11th) – 13.1 miles from Double Spring Gap Campsite (which had no Springs at whatsoever) to Damascus, VA! We are in our 4th state now, 3 are done and just 11 more to go. Damascus is “trail town USA,” the trail goes right through town and it is very trail friendly. We are at Woodchuck’s Hostel, just showered and about to go to post office and get something to eat!  

Day 52 (May 12th) – zero day/zero miles. Rained all day and we took the day off in Damascus. Chica got some new insoles for her trail runners, we sent our winter clothes home, we ate and hung with fellow hikers Mystic, Kestrel Chick, Deep Waters, Lost, and ran into Easy Going, Sushi Roll & Roar. Greg got his pack weight down to 24.5, mine is still 26. Woodchucks is a nice Hostel, good breakfast (waffles, potatoes, eggs, cereal, coffee and juice). Oh, we weighed ourselves and I’m down 16 pounds, Sunsets 36!

Day 53 (May 13th) – 17.2 miles Damascus to Campsite at mile 486.3. Good day, felt pretty good. Rain stopped this morning. Greg is coughing and coming down with a cold. Chica’s new insoles appear to be working well today and also her knee “sock.” We’re enjoying some Mountain House meals tonight – yum!!

Day 54 (May 14th) – 9.0 miles to Deep Gap. Greg continues to not feel well with a cold, coughing/sore throat, so we cut our hike short today so he could rest (I made him some lemon/ginger ☕️ tea). Hike was hard today – rocks, roots, and mud! Tomorrow – wild ponies!

Day 55 (May 15th) – 11.0 miles Deep Gap to stealth campsite. We hit 500 miles today! We saw the wild ponies today in Grayson Highlands! Greg was feeling much better, but still not great. The hike today was hard – lots of boulders, roots, rocks, mud and steam crossings. 

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